9.12.10

mosaic morocco

These gorgeous mosaics and tile designs can be found on virtually any surface throughout Morocco, from grand mosques and palaces to humble doorsteps and corroding stairwells. When I think of Morocco, this imagery comes to mind. In cities and towns were the buildings were completely monotonous (in Marrakech: a reddish beige, in smaller towns and neighborhoods like Asilah: white and blue), the fringes of unique and colorful tiles truly personalized each spot. Prepare your eyes for a minor sensory overload.



   





  










  







  

 






And, actually, tiles and mosaics such as these are not uncommon in Andalucía.
Andalucía was under Muslim rule for centuries, and the 
Arabic influence on architecture and design is still present to this day.


      

gypsy kings

 In Spain, there exists a contrast between the romanticized image of the seductive Spanish gypsy who invented flamenco and fear and prejudice associated with the poor and thieving gypsy. Today, the image of the criminal gypsy dominates modern Spanish society.

  

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The first I heard of real, live gypsies was about a month ago in the Spanish news: a ten year old gypsy girl, pregnant by a 13 year old boy, had given birth.

The second piece of news about gypsies in Spain is much more uplifting (thanks Carly for the tip, gotta love nytimes). Gypsies, who have experienced severe discrimination for centuries in Europe, form a sect of society that is extremely marginalized in all aspects of living: employment, housing, social integration, and so forth. But that's not the uplifting bit. Spain has governmental programs dedicated to aiding the gypsies, and these NY Times journalists have found the programs to be successful. Read on or click on the link to learn more about Spanish gypsies in 2010.

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Encarnación Rómero Bastante, a manicurist, was not sure what to expect when she was hired by a government-financed program to train a 33-year-old Gypsy woman.
But within a few weeks, Ms. Romero said her student, Emilia Jiménez González, knew all there was to know about cuticles and French tips. She was so good and so nice that Ms. Romero went a step further than required and persuaded a friend to give Ms. Jiménez a job.
“She proved herself to be a real professional,” said Ms. Romero, who had never gotten to know a Gypsy before.
Throughout Europe, Gypsies (who are often called Roma, but not in Spain where the Spanish word for gypsy, “gitano,” is uttered with pride) frequently survive in isolated encampments, reviled as beggars and petty thieves. In some Eastern European countries, they face such deep prejudice that they are chased off municipal buses, and in school their children are relegated to classes for the mentally handicapped.
Even in Western Europe, France’s president, Nicolas Sarkozy, could count on shoring up his popularity when he decided to deport thousands of Roma to Romania earlier this year.
But things are different in Spain.
Here, more than 30 years of government programs to help Gypsies have begun to show signs of success. Virtually all young Gypsy children are in elementary school. Nearly half of their parents own their own homes. And like Ms. Jiménez, many are holding down mainstream jobs, moving away from more traditional Gypsy livelihoods like selling cattle and other goods.
Spain has become so successful, in fact, that it now serves as a model for other European countries, including Romania, Bulgaria and Hungary. Some experts say Spain’s secret is that it has concentrated on practical issues, such as access to housing and jobs. In contrast, they say, some European institutions have concentrated too much on issues of prejudice and political rights.
“Perhaps as a result, a lot of money has been spent in other parts of Europe to integrate Gypsies but with few results,” said Isidro Rodríguez, director of Fundación Secretariado Gitano, a state-financed organization that administers the Acceder, or “to access,” job program that helped Ms. Jiménez. “The Spanish approach has really been different because it has been first and foremost about improving living standards.”
There are still problems. The school dropout rate for Gypsy children between 12 and 18 is a staggering 80 percent. Nearly 4 percent of the population still live in shacks.
And tales of day-to-day indignities are not hard to come by. At present, for instance, a troupe of Gypsy women is touring the country in a production of “The House of Bernarda Alba” by the poet Federico García Lorca, a performance that has been widely covered by the news media and won largely rave reviews.
But in Madrid, the actresses — who live in a shantytown in Seville and dress in traditional long Gypsy skirts — had trouble getting a taxi. Though accompanied by government officials, they were also refused service in a local bar.
Still, even advocates for the Roma say that Spain is way ahead of the rest of Europe.
One 2009 study conducted for the Fundación Secretariado Gitano looked at the housing of Gypsies in Bulgaria, the Czech Republic, Greece, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia and Spain, and found that over all a third lived in substandard housing, mostly apartments lacking heat, hot water or electricity. But in some countries, the situation was much worse. In Portugal, for instance, nearly a third of the Roma population still lived in shacks.
In Spain, 92 percent of Gypsies live in standard apartments or houses, according to the same study. Another survey, in 2005, found that 50 percent were formally employed, government officials said.
“Something like that is so important,” said Juan Mato Gómez, a director general in the Ministry of Health, Social Policy and Equality. “It addresses one of the basic myths about Gypsies — that Gypsies cannot hold down a steady job.”
Gypsies, who originally came from India, have been in Spain since the 15th century. Their traditions, such as their contributions to flamenco, have become part of Spain’s identity. Yet, until recently they faced persecution, sometimes intended to drive them out of the country, sometimes intended to force assimilation. At one point, they were required by law to marry non-Gypsies; at another, they were forbidden to gather in groups of more than four...[see nytimes online for more]
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2.12.10

the holy grail

Check out this Washington Times travel article featuring Spain and jamón ibérico through the eyes of a foodie. The article reaffirms my observations about Spain's obsession with ham and my (reluctant) admittance of the choice meat's deliciousness...

The Holy Grail


Here's a sneak preview...

    "My husband is a foodie who's obsessed with ham. First it was salty country ham from Virginia. That was followed by a prosciutto phase. Then a taste of Spanish ham had us on a plane headed to Madrid.
    Spain loves ham as much as my husband does. Every tapas bar, no matter how humble, has at least five hams -- with hoofs attached -- hanging from the ceiling in the midst of humanity, cigarette smoke and flying insects.
     Classic Spanish ham -- jamón ibérico -- is a lot like Peking duck. It's been savored by a culture for centuries, and the U.S. Department of Agriculture doesn't think it's safe to bring into this country -- unless you have the proper paperwork. As a result, it's rare to find it in America, and when you do, it's jamón serrano at $200 a pop.
     Jamón serrano whetted our appetites for the primo ham you can't get in the States -- the renowned jamón ibérico de bellota from Jabugo in southwestern Spain, where free-range black pigs eat the sweet acorns -- bellotas -- that make those hams so prized. "That's where we're going," announced my husband, Steve, determined to journey to the heart of jamón country.

*    *    *
Our first stop was, no surprise, a ham store. Despite our deficient language skills, Señor Paco Jara of De Jabugo la Canada was adept at explaining why the Jabugo region produces the best ham. The hams are cured in salt one day per kilogram -- "No mas," he said. That means a 20-pound ham leg would be salted for fewer than 10 days, compared with, say, a Smithfield-type ham, which is in salt for more than a month. 

Everyone we met around town expounded on why Jabugo hams are the best. Some credited the dry, mountainous micro-climate of Jabugo. "If you take the same pig to Seville 100 kilometers away," said [our translator], "it would taste different."

Others cited the natural process and lack of preservatives other than pure sea salt. Before the days of refrigeration, hams were kept in cellars to cure, and even now, many locals hang hams in their cellars every fall. Said our Conservas Jabugo guide, Ignacio Contreras, of the elaborate computer-controlled refrigeration of his plant: "This imitates an ancient cellar. Nothing is new in the process."

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Click on the link above to get the full dish on Andalucían ham.

ching-ching

In the U.S., political correctness sometimes gets a bad rap. The constant pressure to be PC is often considered a nuisance, obstructing the way we are able to express ourselves. But let's not take our culture's "PC-ness" for granted...

My social studies teacher (read: teacher of cultures and history) was explaining the migration of a certain population of people through Asia to Europe. She drew a rough sketch of a world map on the board. As she drew Asia, she explained to the students, "This is Asia, you know, like 'ching-ching'," as she pulled her eyes back with her fingers, like this...

(pretty, right?)

I was taken aback by the social studies teacher's readiness to mimic the sounds and appearance of Asians. Not to mention, there is an Asian girl in our class.



1.12.10

i heart SEVici

One of my favorite ways to get around Sevilla is with SEVici - Sevilla's bike sharing system. The name comes from a mixture of SEVilla and bICIcleta (bicycle), and the system is very user-friendly. For 6€/week or 12€ for a year with a SEVici card (I'm still waiting for mine in the mail...) you can pick up a bike at any SEVici station, ride it, and park it at any one of the 250 other stations throughout the city. Each first 1/2 hour of riding is free, and after that you pay a small fee per additional 1/2 hour, but it shouldn't take you longer than 30 minutes to ride anywhere in the city . I have a SEVici station right outside my flat, and I remember being absolutely thrilled while riding a bike through the narrow, winding, cobblestone streets of Sevilla on my first night out. (That thrill of riding on cobblestone has since turned to annoyance). The bikes are fairly new, available 24/7, equipped with a basket, and unlike bike sharing systems in other cities, the stations really are ubiquitous. The only trouble comes when there's no more parking at a popular station, or when the bike you happen to be riding is somehow impaired.


the teachers' barbeque

The Event:

Recently, my school put on a barbeque for all of the teachers. The food was astoundingly delicious, made by the chefs of our school cafeteria, who, in my opinion, make the very best tortilla de patatas (spanish omellete or spanish tortilla) in all of Spain.

The Setting: 

The school gym. No heating. No seating. It's very common in Spanish culture to eat while standing.

The Vibe:

The barbecue epitomized Andalucían culture. Everyone standing around, drinking, chatting, eating. Chatting, chatting, chatting. Eating, drinking, chatting, (and sometimes even smoking - on campus!). Whereas in the presence of a buffet style meal my mind sets off on one single train of thought: food food food food (hence the American stereotype of fast and big eaters), the teachers lounged around, even in the freezing cold, perfectly relaxed. If you think Southern California is laid back, try coming to Southern Spain. No one thinks about what they need to do later, because this meal, lunch, with friends and co-workers, is the most important part of their day. Socializing over food could be considered the most important part of every day. And they do so for hours on end. When Don Antonio, the principal, told me about the barbecue, he explained, "we will eat, will we drink, we will chat, starting at 3pm and ending...I don't know. We will keep going until we want to, probably well into the evening."

Additionally, although they provided small plates for people to serve themselves, everyone just dug right into the plates. When I was prompted to try a casserole, I looked around for the plate, and they told me, "no! just eat it with your fork!" I doubt this would ever happen in the states, but as a non-germaphobe, I didn't mind. Everyone just walked around with a fork, picking as they pleased. Like I said, it was very relaxed.


The Spanish Pride:

I had nearly every teacher come up to me each time a new dish was brought out to make sure that I tried it, and even more so, to make sure that I liked it. I frequently heard, "you don't have this in your country...", referring to the Spanish foods. I tried to explain to them that although paella isn't common, we do actually have Spanish restaurants that serve paella, and that we do have sliced, cured hams and good cheeses, it's just that, in the states, not everyone eats ham and cheese three times a day. They would correct me and say, ah, but no, you don't have this. Okay, I resigned. I suppose it is difficult to procure some tortilla de patatas in the U.S. (But that's the distinction between Spain and the U.S...In the U.S., it is difficult to find a certain Spanish dish. In Spain, it is impossible to find certain American foods. And I'm proud of America's food diversity.) The pride that the Spanish have in their cuisine (especially the people of Andalucía) is shared by all, and becomes evident in any social gastronomical setting.


The Menu:

The first course consisted of mucho jamón ibérico, cheese, and tortilla de patatas, along with wine and beer, served readily throughout the course of the afternoon.

Next came the bacalao, which came in the form of a casserole. Bacalao is the Spanish word for cod fish, and it came in a casserole with vegetables and tomato sauce.

And then of course, the meat. Several different cuts of pork, grilled, and eaten alone or with bread. I've had to grow to appreciate pork while living in this country; I started with prosciutto and cured hams, but after this barbecue, have come to realize the excellent flavor in barbequed pork meat. (Interestingly enough, there are "vegetarians" in Spain who do not eat any meat except pork. In the states, those vegetarians who choose to still eat one form of meat usually pick a light meat, such as fish or turkey. Pork is nearly as ubiquitous in Spain as the Spanish language.)

The chefs cooked paella in a pan with a three foot diameter. Before, I had only eaten paella at a restaurant, and was unimpressed. After having homemade paella, I have changed my mind about the typical (and famous) Spanish dish. It, too, was excellent.

And then came the dessert, of which I only had room to try the lemon mousse made by one of the teachers, which was perfectly sweet and sour.